STERLING SILVER
THE REAL NITTY GRITTY

First lets establish exactly what Sterling Silver is. Sterling Silver is an alloy of silver that should contain 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metal. Usually the other metal is copper. Fine silver is pure silver and should be 99.9% silver. Pure silver is too soft to shape and stamp into jewelry parts or jewelry beads. A note about fine silver: unlike sterling silver, fine silver is very resistant to tarnishing.

When you hear terms like, "German Silver, "Indian Silver”, "Mexican Silver", or "Montana Silver," keep in mind that there is no guarantee of the silver content of these items. In my research, I found out that "German Silver" is another name for the alloy of Nickel, Copper, and Zinc and is usually referred to as Nickel Silver. Even though the name denotes silver, there is usually no silver content.

STAMPINGS ON YOUR SILVER
WHAT THEY MEAN:

Sterling components and jewelry made in the USA are often stamped "Sterling”.

Goods made for international trade are often marked "925" indicating the 92.5% fineness.

"Coin" silver is used in some countries and could be marked "900" or "800" depending on fineness.

In many countries, precious metal must be stamped with a quality mark such as "925" for sterling. Some countries require jewelry of precious metal be submitted to a governmental assay office for destructive testing, however there are no regulations in the United States.

REGIONAL SILVER MAKERS

Bali - Bali Silver is sterling silver mixed with pewter for a grayer tone and some copper. The total proportion of pewter and copper should not be more than 7.5%. Bali silver is prized for its intricate detail and great silversmithing. Bali artisans have passed the family tradition of silver beadmaking through generations. They construct their beads, pendants and other jewelry components with silver from regional mines. Be aware that there are now many cheaper imitations of Bali style silver on the market, most of which are cast (or "molded") instead of being fabricated by hand. The imitations are usually heavier and the detail is not as intricate. Armed with this tidbit of information should help you in making sure you are getting what you pay for.

Thailand- Thai Silver is often referred to as Hill Tribe Silver. It originates from various regions in Northern Thailand, near the borders of Laos and Burma (Myanmar). Like Balinese craftspeople, the silversmiths of Northern Thailand have built their lives around silver including mining and crafting it. Hill Tribe Silversmiths, like Bali artisans, create every facet of their components by hand and their designs are prized for design intricacy and detail. 

TIPS TO HELP YOU WITH YOUR
SILVER PURCHASES

German Silver can be scratched with a copper coin and remember, there is usually no silver in German silver. It is comprised of a mixture of copper, zinc and nickel.

.Indian Silver is usually mixed with lead and copper, it is heavier is weight, which gives it a more solid feel

.Mexican Silver is usually mixed with copper and the sterling content may vary.

.Nickel Silver does not contain any silver at all.

.Pewter does not contain any silver, but does contain a silver white metallic element that does not tarnish.

.Thai Silver should contain .925 silver content.

.Turkish Silver is Sterling Silver mixed with cadmium. Cadmium makes the silver lightweight and tarnish resistant.

If you will be purchasing a large amount of silver from a new dealer you’re not familiar with, it may benefit you to purchase a Nitric Acid test kit. It is very portable since it is only a single bottle. These kits are quite reliable for determining if an item is silver or if it contains any silver. Although these kits won’t tell you what the other metals are, it will definitely tell you what the item is not. Initially, I always purchase the smallest amount of an item I can, for test purposes. Once I’ve secured my sterling items, I make a slight nick in a hidden spot if I plan on keeping the item. Nicking the item will also let you know if you are purchasing plated items or not. It will also cut through any lacquer that may be on the piece. Use a small file to nick the area, and then place a drop of your acid on that area. When testing pure silver you should get a creamy color. Sterling Silver will test a hue darker but you should still get a cream color. You should only do this test when you have access to water since you will need it to rinse your items when you are finished. Once you’ve finished testing the piece, the chemicals may leave a slight whitish or grayish discoloration on the item. This can easily be remedied by buffing the piece.

Having a retail store where I resale my sterling, I feel obligated and compelled to be knowledgeable about what I am selling. This test has definitely helped me eliminate the fakes and add only legitimate Sterling vendors to my roster.

PUDGY PUBLISHING NEWS

The launch of our book  "REP'S REFERENCE" IS NOW AVAILABLE.
Compiling over 1,000 listings took longer than we expected but we are very proud of the results. The hardest part was getting reps to respond to our requests to verify their information. We stepped out of our usual comfort zone and included more than jewelry listings. We thought that this would make our manual useful for almost any artist or manufacturer. Check out the detailed information for this book under "our books" heading on our home page.
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A huge thank you to everyone who purchased "You made it...Now Sell It!!!" We are now into our second printing...in less than a year. We also want to thank you for all the positive feedback.
Check out some of our reviews:
"you made it..now sell it review 1"
"you made it..now sell it review 2"
"you made it..now sell it review 3"

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We have some great titles on the drawing board for 2009..so stay tuned. 
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CALIFORNIA WOMEN'S CONFERENCE

Join us at California Women's Conference  in Long Beach, California on October 21 and 22. There are still tickets available for "Night at the Village." This conference is headed by Maria Shriver. The keynote  speaker this year is Warren Buffett. With the economy being what it is it will be interesting to hear what Mr. Buffett has to say. Check out the website there are over 50 celebrities  speakers this year. The entertainment line-up includes "Bono and Bonnie Raitt. We will be in booth number 1928. For more information please visit  the website at californiawomen.org.

Designing with Beads from Nature

Throughout the years organic gems have been used in jewelry. Their historical significance is just as interesting as their appearance. If you are designing using new or vintage glass beads or using lots of seed beads in your work you can easily add gemstones to your creations, oftentimes increasing their value. Following is a brief guide to some of nature’s bead wonders.

CORAL: Coral was used in jewelry as early as 25,000 years. It has been prized by many cultures. Beautiful orange coral was carved by the Bhutanese, high in the Himalayas. Although Coral is strong, its elasticity makes it ideal for carving. It’s native to the world seas, especially those with large reefs in the warmer waters of the Indian and Pacific Ocean. Some finds of coral when first harvested or heated can be bent and formed into bracelets and curved shapes. Most Coral is too soft and porous for cutting. Because of its branching nature, you’ll find most pieces small and thin. Oftentimes it is shaped into beads or small charms. There are many varieties of coral. The usual color is red to pinkish but you can also find shades of red and white. From the Hawaiian Islands you can find spectacular, almost metallic gold coral. Red and pink specimens are considered to be more valuable because of their rarity. So, next time you see coral beads or charms study it a little more to appreciate its pure natural beauty.

PEARLS: Pearls are among the most precious of beads. They are also the most imitated Usually with a glass or plastic base that has been covered with a fish scales paste. Although some of them, especially the vintage ones have a wonderful luster none of them rivals the translucence of a genuine pearl. The natural glow can be only achieved with layer after layer of nacre. The layers are made up of calcium carbonate and conchiolin (an organic substance). Pearls hold a small amount of water trapped inside giving them their unique glow. Natural pearls can be found in a wide range of colors and shades. Oysters are the most common find for pearls but precious pearls can also be found from abalones and mussels. The South Pacific yields pearls striking pastels and ivory. The pastels range from delicate pinks and lavenders to an almost green color. The deeper almost metallic shades of blue, gray, black, gold and silver. These are found mostly in the Caribbean and are quite rare. In ancient times, divers risked their lives for rare priceless gems. In many parts of the Orient pearls were believed to be the “frozen tears of the gods”. They were also thought to have magical properties. Today there is mass culturing of both fresh and saltwater varieties and they are abundant. Incorporate these beauties into your next design and watch it become warm and elegant.

AMBER: From the shores of the Baltic sea to the mines of Hispaniola (the Dominican Republic) pieces beyond description can be found in shades of clear, strong yellow to beautiful scarlet. In Central America, mines are found to possess chunks of deep-green or blue amber, although this is rare. You will find more amber in a yellow-brown to brownish-red color and usually transparent. Semi-opaque amber is also found. The cloudiness is caused by tiny air bubbles and impurities trapped inside. You can also find this amber in a milky white, called “bone amber.” Amber is the only gem whose value and beauty is enhances by inclusions of insect and small leaves.  In fact, in my opinion it makes amber one of the only true organic gems.  Amber is soft and light. Real amber will float on salt water and gives off a piney, aromatic scent when warmed or burned. In ancient civilizations, amber was more precious than gold and was traded and tightly controlled by the rich and powerful. It was also said to be rays of sunshine solidified on water. Still others thought it was golden tears of god. It was also thought to have supernatural powers, they often wore it to protect them from evil spirits. Personally, I love amber and am always in awe of the radiant beauty locked up in such small pieces.

I’ve covered just a few of natures beauties…in a future article I’ll share more information on natures gemstones.